■ Tour guide to the back streets of Daegu

If you want to experience Daegu’s modern history, a downtown street tour program is available. Since 2008, the Jung-gu District Office has provided a tour program for people interested in touring through the heart of the city. Through this program, one can observe scattered cultural and social heritage sites with professional guides, free of charge. During the International Athletics Championships 2011 Daegu, the Yeongnam Ilbo (Daily Press) will offer an introduction to the four major downtowns of Daegu for foreign tourists. Tourists who want to participate can book a tour by contacting the Daegu Jung-gu Office of Culture and Tourism. (053) 661-2194.

By Changnam Lee

◆DALSUNG PARK: Tracing Back a History of 2000 Years

Dalsung, the name of this park near Daegu Daeshin Seomun Market, derived from Daegu’s old name, Dalgubul. Therefore, Dalsung Park is a symbolic place of Daegu. However, don’t get confused with Dalsung County, Daegu. Entering the park, you will find a trail on your left named, ‘Tosung’ meaning an earthen castle wall. Since the trail is flat with only several short steep slopes, it provides a pleasant walk for visitors. The time-honored park exhibits a mysterious contrast at twilight between the bright lights of the modern city and the ancient monumental structure. A walk along the trail will surely help you calm you because there, you can go far back in time, away from the normal hustle and bustle of life.

The castle wall is similar to that of Wolsung Castle in Gyeongju. Gyeongju was the ancient capital city of the Shilla Kingdom (57 BC∼935 AD). Based on evidence, some historians assert that the walls were built during the Shilla period. If you are lucky, you may discover some old pieces of pottery or stone axes on the ground. On the Tosung trail, you can see the northwest part of the city all the way to Chimsan-dong area. You can also see an post-war camp site as well as some on-going redevelopment sites.

◆GYEONGSANG GAMYOUNG PARK-An Urban Park with History

Anybody visiting Daegu for the first time should visit the “Park Trio” (Gyeongsang Gamyoung, Gukchaebosang, 2·28 Movement) that are conveniently located in the downtown area. Among them, Gyeongsang Gamyoung Park is unique. ‘Gamyoung’ means the Provincial Administrative Office where the governors worked during the Joseon Period (1392-1910 AD). There were eight provinces in the country bordering Manchuria to the north, and Gyeongsang Province was the second biggest. The park is the site where the official building was located. First opened in 1601 (King Sunjo Year 34), 253 governors commissioned by the King to exercise both administrative and judicial powers worked here for 310 years until the office was forcefully closed by the Japanese in 1910. The government office allowed Daegu to be the center for politics, economy, culture, and education in Youngnam area. The original office contained parts of buildings on its east and west side, but only two buildings, Sunhwadang and Jinchonggak, are reconstructed. These two are designated as Daegu Metropolitan City #1, and #2 respectively for its role in the history of the city.

Throughout the Japanese colonial period, it was used as the Gyeongsangbukdo Province Government Office until the office moved to the current location in Buk-gu Sangyukdong in 1965, renovating the site into a park.

◆NAMSUNG STREET - alias the ‘Herb Street’

Today, Daegu Namsung street is better known as ‘Yakjungolmok’ or the medicine street. Being the oldest herbal medicine market in nation, (350 years old), the market was regularly held twice a year in spring and in fall. Once the castle walls were torn down in between 1906 and 1907, the market spread around the area.

At the Yakryungshi Museum (Herb Medicine Wellbeing Hall), you can easily see the heyday of Yakryungshi (or the Herbal Medicine Town). If you are unfamiliar with Korean herbal medicine, you should sample the herbal tea provided for free on the second floor. It will taste bitter at first, but soon you will realize that it is good for your health. The area around the museum is Yakryung Theme Park.

Famous historical buildings in the area are Jeil Church established in 1933 and its Bell Tower in 1937. As the church is open to the public during day time, you can walk around the building and check out the ivy-covered walls and the beautiful bell tower. If you are lucky, you can meet Mr. Jongdae, Choi of the third heir of the famous Daegu Herbal Store and Mr. Yongshik, Lee of Gwangshin Herbal Store. Both wanted to live different lives but had to inherit their family businesses. Talk to them and listen to their stories.

◆GYODONG STREET - There is ‘everything street’

Gyodong, meaning ‘school zone’ in Chinese characters, was a village with Hyanggyo, a local Confucian school. Here, Korean youths were educated in Chinese Literature and Confucianism. However, traces of the old school have completely disappeared from the area. Instead, numerous small shops and stores are flourishing. The main trading place is Gyodong Market, which ironically resulted due to the Korean War. Many refugees who gathered around the area began to make a meager living by dealing with products from the US Army PX, hence its other name ‘Yankee Mart’ Because people can find almost anything there, it is also called the ‘Magic Market.’

The labyrinths of the market baffle people, even the residents of the area. On the first floor, there are more than 150 jewelry shops, and the second floor is full of home electronics and household items.

English translated by Garam Park
Reviewed by Heedal Kim,
Thomas Raudenbush(LIKE)

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